Now a days Koreans want to visit something old, historical, not that much fancy places. I understand that somehow. Since South Korea had literally nothing after Korean war, Korea has focused on build again new things. It seems at least Seoul is modernized enough, people are looking for something antique, old, nostalgic things.
Ikseon-dong(익선동) is a newly emerged hot place among Koreans. It's placed in the center of Seoul. It was originally old, not renovated area. Houses in this area have traditional Hanok style roof but the walls are made with cement. The small alley and houses formation was already there even in Joseon dynasty but they were rebuilt after total destruction caused by Korean war. That's why the houses in this area have old 1950's, 1960's construction style.
Koreans who seek something old, not fancy found out these area. The other reason was rental fee was cheap in this area before. Now there are restaurants, cafe, traditional street food shops and handcrafts shops.
You can easily reach there with subway. If you go out to exit 5 Jongno3ga station, you can see small alley across the street. Go inside the alley area. It's not hard to find because people always make a long line at the entrance of the alley. There is a popular street food shop at the entrance of the alley.
I personally recommend you to avoid weekend and holidays. It's very crowded so there are always long line in front of all most every restaurants and cafe. I don't like waiting in line too long for restaurants. Some Koreans stand in line more than 30 minutes even in winter to eat in specific restaurants but I don't have the passion. Usually I couldn't find why those restaurants which have long long line are so popular even when I ate there.
Small and simple food like Hotteok (Kind of hot pancake with brown sugar paste inside, oil fried), fishcake with hot soup, dumplings are popular. Bun style bread with full of creams, skewed meat, traditional sweets shops are also there. These foods are easy to eat while you walk around the area. There are Korean traditional meal, brunch, pasta, pizza or beer pub, wine shop too.
Most of them used the Hanok's traditional space well. Inner garden or empty place is at center, rooms are placed around the center space. General price is not cheap. It has tourist places' price honestly. There were small different things in some places I visited compared with other area in Seoul. For example, there was a localized coffee style in Korea in my parents' generation. Now a days since many franchise coffee shops are here, those old style coffee is hard to find. I saw a cafe selling those old style coffee.
I complaint about the price and crowds. However it's still not bad to visit once. General taste of food here is not bad. There are small cute interior objects here and there. Old walls and building structures are not found in Gangnam or Hongdae area. Rice cake or traditional sweets are tasty too. I went there in January. It was damn cold so I quickly crawled inside any restaurant. It would be nice if I can spend sometime outside, wondering around here and there. Furthermore, this place is located at the center of the Seoul. Other popular places like palaces, Insa-dong etc. are all near by.
There are also comic books cafe, DIY handcraft shops, a place which rent an independent movies or old animations so you can watch it in the place. Koreans who want to take pics with 50 years ago old style alley also visit here. This place is still safe from gentrification, so you can enjoy the various characteristics created by small size shops.
If you find any errors, have updated information or want to add some comments, feel free to let me know (Last update: 2019. 5. 27.)
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